Neath and Tennant Canals Trust

Affiliated to the Inland Waterways

29 March 2024

Letters written during a Tour through South Wales 1803

Letters written during a Tour through South Wales in the year 1803 and at other times by The Rev. J. Evans B.A. Containing the views of the History, Antiquities and Customs of that part of the principality..............

Letter V

Dear Sir,

...............The hills on the right covered with wood, formed a pleasing contrast to the swampy rush-clad flat on our left, as we approached Aberavon. This village stands about two miles from the sea, above the Avon Bar, from which circumstance it takes its name. It is rising into some consequence from extensive copper works carried on here, by a company from Bristol. Inquiring into the customs and curiosities of this part of the country, we were directed to the works below; but a hoary-headed peasant, whose quickness of perception kept pace with his memory, surmising we were not satisfied with this information, and lifting his voice to a pitch that bespoke he was jealous for the honour of his native spot, observed, that Aberavon from its flat situation, could not be expected to exhibit such such wonders as the mountainous part of the country; but there was one thing of which it could boast above any other place on the coast. " Every Christmas day in the morning, gentlemen, a salmon exhibits-himself in the river that runs by this ancient corporation; and is so docile as to permit himself to be handled and taken by any person that wishes. But if any were so impious as to kill him, a divine judgment would instantly overtake the wicked man."

This story thus asserted by one, was corroborated by many, and is attested by those who have had the felicity to be familiar with this very extraordinary visitor; but were not irreligious enough to arrest his body. Of all the motley swarms of stories produced in the feculent waters of superstition, this appears as extraordinary as any; we hope, therefore, the good natured people of the place will forgive us, if unable to account for the origin, we cannot discover the utility of the story. And as we are not possessed of sufficient faith to believe, that the sun dances on Easter-day, we withhold our assent from the miraculous appearance of this inhabitant of the wave.

The country now put on a pleasing rural garb, as we passed through large groves of oak and chestnut, on the eastern banks of the Nedd. An avenue near two miles in extent defended us from the oppressive heat of the sun; while the adjacent declivities studded with neat houses, furnished an agreeable scene; the effect of which was heightened by the dense woods of Vernon Park, on the margins of the estuary. Here is a justly admired spot called Briton Ferry. The advantages which nature has bestowed on this place baffle all attempts at adequate description; whatever enters into the bold or pleasing landscape, are here combined, verdant slopes, shady woods, abrupt declivities, with massive oaks growing out of the iron-stone rocks; and showing their roots through the strata on the banks of the river; the Nedd opening in a wide estuary to the ocean; the moving scene of shipping up and down the river; all unite to adorn this place with numerous and peculiar charm.In this enviable spot. amidst thick plantations, stands the small but elegant mansion of Lord Vernon. The house is low, having two wings with attic windows in the roof, ornamented with a balustraded parapet. Before the principal front are clumps of myrtles, a proof of the mildness of the air. The park consists of several small eminences, with irregular walks, terminating in vistas, which command the most delicious views; estuary, the bay, the mumbles, and the distant mountains-in fine perspective. Every view is different, but every one picturesque and interestingly fine. The points are admirably chosen, and the formation  and disposal of the whole, display much judgment and true taste*

Indeed it must be a perverted one indeed, that could despoil nature of the beauties she has so lavishly bestowed on Briton Ferry. But the admirer of nature will lament, that the privacy and silence which tends to produce and enhance the pleasurable effects of rural scenery, are now invaded and destroyed by the continuation of the Neath canal; cut for the purpose of an easier delivery of coals for exportation, from his Lordship's and other collieries in the vicinity of Neath. The shallow and shifting sands of the river prevent vessels getting out or in, but at spring tides; and at all times render the navigation difficult and precarious. This has of late years thrown the balance of the coal trade into the hands of their neighbours at Swansea.. The Neath proprietors will however by this plan be enabled to come in for a share of the trade. This has been represented as strongly derogatory to his Lordship's taste; but it must be acknowledged that beauty should be subordinate to utility; and in many instances taste has been obliged by imperious necessity to make sacrifices, which though she does not admire, she has been unable to avoid. And his enthusiasm must far exceed his benevolence, who does not rejoice, that a market is opened for the commodities of the country; and new sources of wealth afforded to the inhabitants. Nor can it be doubted, that while his Lordship enjoys for the present the fruits of his exertions; that his patriotic spirit will receive, as it deserves, the thanks of posterity.

To the south of the park, em bosomed in a native grove, stands the small neat church  of Llansawel.....................................

Letter V1

Dear Sir,

Leaving the calm retreat, and refreshing shades of Briton Ferry, the country began to change its appearance; and remind us, that we have left the quiet walks of life. and were entering upon a manufacturing and commercial part of the country, as we approach the town of Neath, than which a more uncomfortable or disgusting place, perhaps, cannot be imagined. The streets are narrow and dirty, and the houses blackened with the continual columns of smoke, that ascend from the collieries and foundries; the inhabitants partake of the same dingy hue; the baleful effluvia blast vegetation in its infancy, and destroy the appearances of verdure in the vicinity. Some walls of its castle, built by one of the Norman knights, are still standing; but the only thing worthy of remark is the ruins of its large and celebrated abbey; whence it was called Abbat y Glyn Nedd; the latter being the name of the river, on the western banks of which it stands. It was a Cistertian house of white monks, dedicated to the Holy Trinity; founded by Richard de Greenville and Constance his wife, who bestowed the tythes belonging to the castle of Neath, with a large tract of waste land and other possessions, in the time of Henry 1 to the abbot and convent of Savigny, near Lyons in France, for the purpose of erecting and peopling a monastery in this place. Accordingly, the Fratres Grisei quickly executed the wishes of the pious founder; and, in compliment to their benefactor, transformed themselves from grey to white; from Franciscan, to Cistertian brethren .At the Dissolution, the fraternity consisted only of eight monks; and the revenues, according to Dugdale, were ?132. 7s. 7d. while Speed makes them ?!54 4s. 0d. Tanner says it was granted by Henry V111, to Sir Richard Williams, Leland mentions, among other privileges, that this abbey possessed that of sanctuary; in his Itinerary he calls it " the fairest abbey of all Wales;" but in his Collectanea he gives the decided preference to that of Margam. The site of the refrectory, hall, chapel, and other rooms may still be traced; and the ichnography of its once spacious and elegant chapel; spacious indeed it must have been, if, as we are told, "seven clergymen might preach in it at the same time, without the voice of one interrupting that of another!" These ruins stand at a distance from the public road; yet they cannot fail, by their majestic garb of antiquity, to attract the notice of the passing traveller. But much of the effect as a religious ruin, is lost by the appearance of the population; numbers of poor families, belonging to the adjoining coper works, take up their abode within its walls; and the emotions of veneration, which would otherwise naturally arise in the mind, are absorbed in attention to the looks of distress, and the cries of misery.

Neat the town stands Gnoll Castle, upon a commanding situation, formerly the Roman station of Nidum; and some of the fortifications are included in the park. It is an elegant structure, lately belonging to the Mackworth family, but transferred by marriage to that of Henbury Lee. Glyn and Gwm Nedd were formerly celebrated for their romantic beauties; but the opening of collieries, erecting forges and smelting houses, and numerous other works of Vulcan, have driven the Naiads and Dryads from their pleasing retreats. A canal runs through the vale to Furno Vaughan, and is now being extended from Neath to Briton Ferry; this accompanying the river at a small distance, from the deadness of its waters, and the formality of its line, abridges considerably the beauty of the vale. Yet we could not justly regret this intrusion of art, when we were informed that, previous to this work, the mines of iron, lead, coal &c. with which this country abounds, were very partially worked, and little productive to their respective proprietors. From the great difficulty, and consequent expense, of land carriage for such ponderous articles, in country where draft is impeded by a recurrence of hills, and conveyance by water to a market was necessary to render profitable what before was useless, or of small value. The transportation being easy, the consumption will increase; and improvements thus gradually extended to the interior parts of the country. The various works of coal, iron, copper, vitriol, alum, &c. while they increase the capital of the country, afford employment to the numerous poor; in such cases the public, as well as private, advantages of canals are demonstrably evident. Yet I am still of the opinion, that the time will come when our posterity will smile at the plan of making an artificial river by the side of a natural one; and the more rational scheme adopted, of rendering those which Nature has made, fit for all purposes of inland navigation

 


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